Do NOT let the locals talk you into going to the Casa Bonita (if it is still there) to eat, they will be pranking you. But DO try to go to the Buckhorn Exchange ... aside from the food (which is excellent, particularly if you like game meats), the decor is not to be believed. And it might well be the only restaurant in the world with a mounted whale's ... hm, not sure I can say just what without getting wankerized.