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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Seattle, WA

    France Recommendations

    Denizens of DBR-

    We are taking a family trip to France in April. A couple days in Normandy, a couple days in the Loire Valley, and 5 days in Paris. We have accommodations all lined up, but would welcome recommendations on activities, restaurants, etc. Bonus points for recommendations that are toddler friendly - we're traveling with our not-quite-two-year-old (getting in one last big trip before the airline rules mean that we have to buy him a separate ticket).
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Undisclosed
    Quote Originally Posted by pfrduke View Post
    Denizens of DBR-

    We are taking a family trip to France in April. A couple days in Normandy, a couple days in the Loire Valley, and 5 days in Paris. We have accommodations all lined up, but would welcome recommendations on activities, restaurants, etc. Bonus points for recommendations that are toddler friendly - we're traveling with our not-quite-two-year-old (getting in one last big trip before the airline rules mean that we have to buy him a separate ticket).
    Did that same trip with a two-year old (and again with a two- and five- year old).

    Normandy: Bayeux tapestry is cool, and Bayeux is one of the few towns in Normandy that was not bombed too much. Neat little town, not a far drive from the American Cemetery. As for Normandy Beach and the American Cemetery, every American should go there if they can. Right on the bluff of Omaha Beach.

    Loire: stayed in Saumur, a college town. Neat place. Planned to go to some chateaus but it just never happened.

    Paris -- what can you say? I went totally expecting to hate it )or be non-plussed at best). Absolutely loved it. Visit the local parks with some bread, wine and cheese.

    I'll pull out some notes and shoot them to you.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Vermont
    You'll get a billion recommendations on Paris, just an amazing place.

    I'll give you just one: if you like food, especially as food ought to be displayed and purchased, check out the (roughly four block long) Rue Mouffetard,
    where you'll find amazing shops for a dazzling array of food items...bread shops, meat shops, fish, cheese, pastries, fruits and veggies, huge
    rotisseries on the street with dozens of chickens on them (being stared at by salivating dogs)...it's a VERY old and very lively
    neighborhood in the 5th arrondissement...closed all day Monday and part of Sunday....... mornings, like 10-12, is a great time to go...slow meandering, gawking
    at and purchasing amazing food should be good for a youngun, too. We just love that place.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Steamboat Springs, CO
    Been to France a bunch of times and am taking two of the grandchildren there this summer.

    Here are my suggestions:

    Go to Mont St-Michel. It is a unique place. I have been twice and would return again.

    The Memorial de Caen is a museum of peace and war in Caen and is a fascinating place.

    I found the town of Rouen, along the Seine and on the way to Paris, to be fascinating. It's where Jeanne d'Arc was burned at the stake -- the greatest public relations disaster in English history -- the French still remember almost 600 years later. It's also where Julia Child had her first meal in France circa 1947. Interesting cathedral and some good places to eat.

    Giverny, where Monet lived and painted, is also on the way to Paris. His sizable home and studio is open, although the lily ponds are more interesting than the exhibits. If you really want to see Monet, go to the Orangerie off the Place de la Concorde.

    Consider getting a guide for Notre Dame and the Roman excavations on the plaza there. The Ile de la Cite has been settled for 2,000 years. The premier place to visit is Ste. Chapelle, a perfect gem of a Gothic chapel that was consecrated in 1248 -- uhhh, a while ago.

    I always use le Metro when I am in Paris and have never had any problems, except that some of the routes and stations are complicated.

    You may want a guide for the Eiffel Tower -- ask at your hotel -- because a guide can get you to the front of the line, which is a real advantage. Our guide also showed us the basement below the tower, where all the cables and elevator mechanisms can be seen.

    You can walk all over "old Paris" and cover a huge amount of ground in 45-60 minutes. This is a walking city, much like London and Manhattan.

    The neighborhood restaurants tend to be clustered along side streets. For example, the Japanese restaurants near the Palais du Luxembourg. This is especially tru in neighborheeds in the 1st and 2nd district (arrondissement).

    Sacre Couer and Montmartre are up in the heights --there is a funicular -- visits should be combined, although this is a touristy area these days.

    Anyway, bon voyage!
    Sage Grouse

    ---------------------------------------
    'When I got on the bus for my first road game at Duke, I saw that every player was carrying textbooks or laptops. I coached in the SEC for 25 years, and I had never seen that before, not even once.' - David Cutcliffe to Duke alumni in Washington, DC, June 2013

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio
    You'll get much better recs from everyone else, but in Paris, I'd strongly encourage you not to skip Sainte Chapelle, or Musee l'orangerie.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Forest Hills, NY
    Picasso Museum

    Le Marais district

    Restaurant by Saint Germain des Pres - Le Petit Zinc www.petit-zinc.com Used to go there often...haven't been in a while

    Walk, Walk, Walk...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Vermont
    Quote Originally Posted by duke74 View Post
    Picasso Museum

    Le Marais district

    Restaurant by Saint Germain des Pres - Le Petit Zinc www.petit-zinc.com Used to go there often...haven't been in a while

    Walk, Walk, Walk...
    yup, Paris is just a remarkable walking city. (Also put SF up there for best walking, world class cities).

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Boston area, OK, Newton, right by Heartbreak Hill
    For kids? The Musee de l'Armee next to Les Invalides and Napoleon's Tomb. All the armor and battle axes you could ever want to see.

    You probably don't have time to get to St. Malo - Pirate Capital of France but if you do, I think it's worth it. (It's in Brittany, not Normandy.)

    Chateau Gaillard - a pile of rocks out in the middle of nowhere (but still Normandy) - built by Richard the Lionheart. It isn't really just a pile of rocks, the inner bailey is still very recognizable as a castle. It's a bit of a hike to get up to it, the toddler will need to be carried at least part way. But once you're there, the kids can run around on the grounds. It's one of those places that can make you feel the history.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    St. Louis
    I'll second the recommendation for the Picasso museum; it was a highlight in a week full of highlights.

  10. #10
    Paris is a family favorite, all recommendations above right on.

    St Chapelle extraordinary (to me) because of its age, proximity to Notre Dame, and the fact in spite of both its a hidden gem. You see a lot of architectural history as that church evolved.

    Notre Dame and Roman ruins outside a can't miss for obvious reasons. Across the river, the Museum of Moyen Age is a wonderful tour of a building that has grown from its Roman Baths through, obviously, the middle ages. Many different era's are visible as the building expanded. Really nice.

    Rodin Museum is a good half indoors/half outdoors museum.

    Luxembourg Palace is a nice garden to walk through, and if a nice day fun for the kids to push boats across the fountain (depends on ages).

    Don't be afraid of trying the pizza in Paris with the kids. Food is fresh and most often very high quality. Mouffetard a great call for a market street of all kinds of food. There is a great fromagerie on Rue de Grenelle near Rue du Bac (probably many, but I know this one). A small museum there as well (Maillot) for something off the beaten track (whats on display constantly changing).

    fidel child really enjoyed d'Orsay and sitting upstairs drawing some of the art (she was 10 or so).

    Too many places to go. Have fun.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Undisclosed
    Quote Originally Posted by fidel View Post
    Paris is a family favorite, all recommendations above right on.

    St Chapelle extraordinary (to me) because of its age, proximity to Notre Dame, and the fact in spite of both its a hidden gem. You see a lot of architectural history as that church evolved.

    Notre Dame and Roman ruins outside a can't miss for obvious reasons. Across the river, the Museum of Moyen Age is a wonderful tour of a building that has grown from its Roman Baths through, obviously, the middle ages. Many different era's are visible as the building expanded. Really nice.

    Rodin Museum is a good half indoors/half outdoors museum.

    Luxembourg Palace is a nice garden to walk through, and if a nice day fun for the kids to push boats across the fountain (depends on ages).

    Don't be afraid of trying the pizza in Paris with the kids. Food is fresh and most often very high quality. Mouffetard a great call for a market street of all kinds of food. There is a great fromagerie on Rue de Grenelle near Rue du Bac (probably many, but I know this one). A small museum there as well (Maillot) for something off the beaten track (whats on display constantly changing).

    fidel child really enjoyed d'Orsay and sitting upstairs drawing some of the art (she was 10 or so).

    Too many places to go. Have fun.
    We were at the Orsay with a kid in stroller, and the line usher pulled us out of a long line to put us in a quick entry with wheelchairs, etc. Check that. If you go there, take the elevator to the top floor first (best stuff up there) while everyone else files in the bottom and moves their way up.

    When Mrs. OPK lay down for a nap with youngPKs, OPK would find a nice cafe to sip a Kir Royale or two on the street. Some of my favorite memories are just sitting at a streetside cafe in St. Germain-des-Pres or Odion on the Left Bank, chilling for an hour, drinking some wine or coffee with a nice appetizer or two, watching the world go by.

    So, take time to sit and savor.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Vermont
    ^ indeed, some of the best meals we've had there (and great meals abound) have been at cafes we just happen upon at lunch, and
    order the daily special....usually well balanced, beautifully prepared, and at a shockingly reasonable price. Plus you get to look at a
    lot of people's dogs curled up under the tables.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Durham, NC
    Spent fall of my junior year in France and did a lot of traveling.

    First rule of traveling in France, stop at EVERY patisserie you see. Totally worth it, and you'll be burning off those calories with all the walking.

    Do see Giverny and Omaha Beach. Mont St Michel was very touristy/cheesy inside - beware.

    In Loire Valley, Rouen was a good, central place to stay. My favorite chateaus to visit were Chambord and Chenonceau. The double helix staircase in Chambord was very cool.

    In Paris there are so many museums to see, but they can really eat up your time, so choose wisely. Musee D'Orsay if you love Impressionism. Also Picasso and Rodin. The Louvre is of course insanely awesome, but it takes FOREVER to see just a few things, and trying to find those few things on your list is time-consuming b/c it is so spread out and complicated to navigate. We wasted half a morning trying to find Venus de Milo, and never found her. In the process of getting lost, we happened upon Hammurabi's Code, which was kind of cool. Basically, set your priorities and maybe consider the Louvre for a later trip when you have bigger kids and more time.

    Definitely see the Eiffel Tower. I suggest going to the top at night when the city is all lit and the smog isn't hazing your view.

    Montmartre is kind of neat, very artsy. Notre Dame will be packed, but you still have to see it.

    Eat cheaply at the cafes - it's where the locals eat and it's good food.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Undisclosed
    Quote Originally Posted by aimo View Post
    Spent fall of my junior year in France and did a lot of traveling.

    First rule of traveling in France, stop at EVERY patisserie you see. Totally worth it, and you'll be burning off those calories with all the walking.

    Do see Giverny and Omaha Beach. Mont St Michel was very touristy/cheesy inside - beware.

    In Loire Valley, Rouen was a good, central place to stay. My favorite chateaus to visit were Chambord and Chenonceau. The double helix staircase in Chambord was very cool.

    In Paris there are so many museums to see, but they can really eat up your time, so choose wisely. Musee D'Orsay if you love Impressionism. Also Picasso and Rodin. The Louvre is of course insanely awesome, but it takes FOREVER to see just a few things, and trying to find those few things on your list is time-consuming b/c it is so spread out and complicated to navigate. We wasted half a morning trying to find Venus de Milo, and never found her. In the process of getting lost, we happened upon Hammurabi's Code, which was kind of cool. Basically, set your priorities and maybe consider the Louvre for a later trip when you have bigger kids and more time.

    Definitely see the Eiffel Tower. I suggest going to the top at night when the city is all lit and the smog isn't hazing your view.

    Montmartre is kind of neat, very artsy. Notre Dame will be packed, but you still have to see it.

    Eat cheaply at the cafes - it's where the locals eat and it's good food.
    Went twice with kids, saw lots of museums but not the Louvre for the same reasons.

    They light up the Eiffel Tower with a show every hour after dark -- take a picnic and get a spot on Mars Field (Champ-de-Mars). Like a firework show for kids without the loud booms.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Boston area, OK, Newton, right by Heartbreak Hill
    The best time to go see Notre Dame is at 9am on a rainy morning. Seriously, I did that once, there was no line. As in, I gingerly opened the door because I thought maybe it was a special occasion and tourists weren't allowed in. Nope, I was just one of the first ones there.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Forest Hills, NY
    Quote Originally Posted by aimo View Post
    In Paris there are so many museums to see, but they can really eat up your time, so choose wisely. Musee D'Orsay if you love Impressionism. Also Picasso and Rodin. The Louvre is of course insanely awesome, but it takes FOREVER to see just a few things, and trying to find those few things on your list is time-consuming b/c it is so spread out and complicated to navigate. We wasted half a morning trying to find Venus de Milo, and never found her. In the process of getting lost, we happened upon Hammurabi's Code, which was kind of cool. Basically, set your priorities and maybe consider the Louvre for a later trip when you have bigger kids and more time.
    I recall in my times there that there is essentially a "greatest hits" tour that takes you to the most popular pieces. If it still exists perhaps that's the answer to this issue.

  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by duke74 View Post
    I recall in my times there that there is essentially a "greatest hits" tour that takes you to the most popular pieces. If it still exists perhaps that's the answer to this issue.
    If you do the Louvre, skip the Mona Lisa. Crowds are insane for an incredibly small painting. 'The eyes follow you' is indiscernible in a crowd of 500 (you can't move).

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Forest Hills, NY
    Quote Originally Posted by fidel View Post
    If you do the Louvre, skip the Mona Lisa. Crowds are insane for an incredibly small painting. 'The eyes follow you' is indiscernible in a crowd of 500 (you can't move).
    See your point, but...if you are there for the first (and perhaps only) time, how can you not view it? Crowds are large (as they should be), but in my experience the flow is constant and there is constant movement other than with the small number of art students and the like who linger.

    I've been fortunate to have visited reasonably often and I view the ML every time...perhaps as I am a creature of habit and feel that if I am there I have to see it again. (I do prefer d'Orsay, as Impressionists are my thing. http://www.musee-orsay.fr/en/)

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Vermont
    Quote Originally Posted by duke74 View Post
    See your point, but...if you are there for the first (and perhaps only) time, how can you not view it? Crowds are large (as they should be), but in my experience the flow is constant and there is constant movement other than with the small number of art students and the like who linger.

    I've been fortunate to have visited reasonably often and I view the ML every time...perhaps as I am a creature of habit and feel that if I am there I have to see it again. (I do prefer d'Orsay, as Impressionists are my thing. http://www.musee-orsay.fr/en/)
    For a variety of reasons, we went to Paris three Februarys in a row, and the lines at all the museums were nearly nonexistent...at one of the museums (L'Orangerie?) there
    was not a single person on line to get in, and when we got there we therefore couldn't figure out where the entrance was. Nice problem.

  20. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by duke74 View Post
    See your point, but...if you are there for the first (and perhaps only) time, how can you not view it? Crowds are large (as they should be), but in my experience the flow is constant and there is constant movement other than with the small number of art students and the like who linger.

    I've been fortunate to have visited reasonably often and I view the ML every time...perhaps as I am a creature of habit and feel that if I am there I have to see it again. (I do prefer d'Orsay, as Impressionists are my thing. http://www.musee-orsay.fr/en/)
    I get it, its iconic. I have seen it many times myself. But my eyes roll when I see people hustling for position for the selfie in front of it.

    There is a museum full of priceless antiquities to see. Probably better stated...don't fight unreasonable lines. I like the guide idea. The museum is massive, and you can tire quickly before you see things that matter to you.

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