Chicago Vacation Advice Sought

[cspan37421]

Hi, the fam and I are headed to Chicago in a couple weeks. We've been before, but we didn't see everything (as if !) so we hope to hit some of the big things we missed, return to some favorites, and add some new stuff. Kids are 12 and 9.

Last time we saw the Shedd Aquarium, Field Museum, Adler Planetarium, Museum of Science & Industry (MSI), Hancock Tower, and some other assorted stuff (The Bean/Millennium Park, Navy Pier, Chicago Cultural Center, Mich Ave).

Food-wise we hit Pizzeria Due, Heaven on Seven, Ed Debevic's, and a yummy Thai place (Siam) not far from MSI. Su Casa was pretty good Mexican, too.

For the return trip, there is a desire to return to MSI, Field, & Ed Debevic's.

For new stuff, we're considering adding the Art Institute, maybe a zoo, maybe a Cubs game (advice on getting tickets?), and Lou Malnati's. Maybe see Wicked.

Any advice on sights/food/events? We're staying in the Loop, 6 nights.

Thanks all!

[blazindw]

Foodwise, the best pizza joint in the city, in my opinion, is Giordano's. It's excellent, but be prepared to wait for a while at the one off Magnificent Mile, especially on the weekends.

[Mal]

Please do definitely plan half a day at the Art Institute. It's top notch.

On the pizza issue, I think most locals would tell you to avoid Giordano's, Uno, Due, and the like. For Chicago-style, I prefer Lou Malnati's myself, but I rarely get Chicago-style pizza. Since you've been here before, I'll steer you outside of the downtown tourist zone. If you want a great pizza joint, head to Brick's, after an afternoon visit to the Lincoln Park Zoo (you mentioned maybe going to a zoo, and this would be the one to go to. It's a throwback, i.e. it's free and not very commercialized, it's urban and totally walkable, and it's charming instead of sprawling and in your face. Maybe doesn't have the bells and whistles to impress a 12 year-old, I guess. Brookfield Zoo, the other option, is way out of town and would be most of a day). Or you could spend the afternoon at North Avenue Beach catching rays and playing volleyball, then head over there. It's on Lincoln Avenue just south of Armitage. And within walking distance of your entertainment for the evening at Second City.

As far as other more adventurous things to do, since it sounds like you've seen the big attractions, and have a number of days, a couple additional suggestions (granted, not all necessarily great for kids at 12 and 9):

1. Get out of downtown and see the neighborhoods. They're what set Chicago apart from NYC and LA and San Fran. Shop along Armitage in Lincoln Park, or up and down Damen in Bucktown, or on the Southport corridor after you do a tour at Wrigley (if you can't get into a game - my advice on your tix inquiry for this season? Show up with a pocketful of cash and be prepared to get robbed). Pilsen is worth a trip, too. Check out some local bookstores and then stop in a local pub or restaurant for a bite/drink.

2. Summer nights in Chicago = beer gardens. Check out metromix.com or the Chicago Reader online for a list of faves. I'm a big fan of some more obscure/local places like Southport City Saloon and Chief O'Neill's, but some of the old standbys are completely solid, too. If you're in Wrigleyville/Lakeview on game day, make sure you hit Sheffield's. It's about 6 blocks due south of the ballpark, has some surprisingly good 'cue and a great vibe.

3. Get out of town entirely. If you're super adventurous, take the Metra up the north shore to Ravinia. Great music almost every night (CSO plays one or two nights a week, but national pop/rock/blues/country acts the rest of the time), and it's a wonderful experience if the weather's right. People "picnic" hardcore up there, so be aware. Don't bring that weak-potty mouthed roasted chicken and pesto penne you picked up at Whole Foods - you need linen, five courses including freshly baked pie, and a $30 bottle of Riesling to impress anyone here.

4. Another fun day trip is to rent bikes and ride the lakeshore. You can go almost the entire length of the City, north to south, on lakefront paths, and continuing further north into Evanston is exceptionally easy. It's a great, eclectic college town with a neat lakefront of its own.

5. Theater. This town's becoming known as a legitimate rival to NY for everything other than musical theater. Steppenwolf, Goodman, and Chicago Shakespeare Theatres (not always Shakespeare, and certainly not always traditional stagings) are all world class, but there's also a ton of smaller theaters around with consistent track records. Makes for a (usually) pretty inexpensive night out.

Enjoy your trip.

[cspan37421]

Thanks for the feedback. Good stuff to consider. To elaborate -

zoo: we used to go a lot, but my kids think they're too big for zoos now. They don't always know what they'll like, however. (true for everyone)

Cubs: not sure what you meant by "prepare to get robbed". Literally or figuratively? Maybe it doesn't matter.

beer gardens: sound fun, but do they allow kids?

walking neighborhoods: there's a "walk & wine" Hyde Park tour:

http://www.gowright.org/robiehouse/tours.php#WW

for my kids, though, it might be "walk and whine"

Any theatres (or shows) to recommend that a) aren't just for grownups yet b) aren't purely for the kindergarten set?

Thanks for the tip on Bricks. That might be a good place if we do go to the zoo.

cheers,

[ohioguy2]

Take a boat tour of the city and buildings--we did this a few years ago and I was very impressed . I believe it left from Navy Pier and was billed as the architectural tour.

[Highlander]

I was most recently in Chicago a few months ago, and tickets to "Wicked" were very easily had, because the show has been there for almost a year. In NC, tickets for the Charlotte tour stop of Wicked sold out completely in about 3 hours.

I've been to two Cubs games at Wrigley, and was able to get decent seats outside for $30 or so. If you've never been, I highly recommend the experience. When I was there, the most expensive seats from scalpers were in the outfield. It was tough to get seats together, but I enjoyed sitting on the 3rd baseline and getting to see the action. Plus if you can't get in, there are plenty of bars in the area, including Murphy's Bleachers.

Giordano's pizza is good, but I wasn't terribly impressed with the service. There are plenty of local places around with Chicago style pizza. Navy Pier on the 4th of July was a pretty cool experience, and IIRC the Taste of Chicago festival is usually around the 4th, so you might get lucky and see it too.

[Scoring Point]

I live in the burbs now, so am not as sharp on Chicago's latest and greatest as I once was. But I think the advice you have been given is generally strong.

Just a few thoughts:

- If you have an interest in seeing live music outdoors, I would highly recommend a concert at Charter One Pavilion on Northerly Island over Ravinia; it is a more dramatic setting (on the Grant Park waterfront, with the Lake and skyline in full view), much easier logistically and much less pretentious. And from a rock/pop standpoint, the lineup of shows is at least as good, if not better.

- You can definitely build a day around Lincoln Park; the beach/volleyball and zoo have already been mentioned, but paddleboats can be fun with kids and the Notabart Nature Museum (at the park's northern edge near Diversey) and the Chicago Historical Society (at the western edge along Clark) are worth a look, too. Brick's is an inspired choice to finish the day there.

- I like Giordano's but would echo recommendations that Lou Malnati's is a superior choice. If you are staying in the Loop, there is a location on North Wells, just across the river; in my experience there, the crowds are not bad, the service is good and the pizza is sublime.

[hurleyfor3]

I prefer Ranalli's thin-crust pizza to anyone's deep dish (two locations in Lincoln Park; also they should deliver downtown). No one eats deep dish anyway except tourists and people hosting out-of-towners. Ed Debevic's is waaaaaaaay touristy, although Heaven on Seven is fine. For sushi go to Kamehachi, 1400 N. Wells. For a romantic Italian place go to Mia Francesa, 3311 N. Clark (caution: long waits).

Don't leave the city unless you're very confident in using Metra. Driving isn't worth the hassle, and we have the most expensive gas east of the Pacific time zone. Do not take the L between downtown and O'Hare on weekends or late at night -- construction is making it VERY slow, and you will wish you took a cab.

Cubs tickets are expensive this year, although you will be able to find tickets outside Wrigley easily. Figure on about 3x face.

[cspan37421]

Thanks for the info on the El, I was planning on taking CTA from O'Hare (and the El is merely part of the CTA, right?) I'll reconsider.

FWIW let me HIGHLY recommend Wicked the novel, by Gregory Maguire. The musical may be neat but it did not surprise me that after hearing the soundtrack to the musical that they left out some of the most interesting and provocative parts, in order to appeal to a broader audience.

The live stuff outdoors is kind of a question mark. For us, in July with kids, the heat/fatigue factor is pretty significant, not to mention that the kids' musical tastes aren't exactly broad. Same thing for food and attractions - the least common denominator is a limiting factor. You can make them go, but they can get you back in other ways.

[Cavlaw]

If you don't mind, when exactly will you be in town? There are a lot of events at different events at different times over the summer and we Chicagoans can make a lot of specific recommendations if we have a window of dates.

The blue line (cta train from O'Hare to the loop) runs fine right now during regular hours. It's the late night trains that are a disaster, but no need to take a cab if you'll be on the train while there is still some daylight.

The Art Institute is under construction - many of the exhibits are closed during construction of the new modern wing. That might be a boon for you with kids, since you couldn't keep them there as long as you might if the whole place were open. The impressionist galleries are still open, and a special exhibit on art from Benin open on July 10. I don't recall what day has free hours, but that might be worth considering.

If you're thinking about a zoo, do take the metra to Brookfield (there's a stop at the zoo), as it's just top notch. I've been to a lot of zoos, and it remains my favorite. I live a few blocks from Lincoln Park zoo and have been many times, but have come away disappointed in each instance and can't recommend it.

I have a wide variety of recommendations on restaurants, entertainment and the like. If you want to chat let me know and I'll shoot you my number.

[Double-0 Devil]

my quick recommendations:
- Navy Pier fireworks (every Wed & Sat in the summer)
- Cubs game in the outfield bleachers
- Bongo Room (my favorite breakfast place - best to arrive just before they open and wait in line - it's worth it)

[Bluedog]

Thanks for the info on the El, I was planning on taking CTA from O'Hare (and the El is merely part of the CTA, right?) I'll reconsider.

Yes, the L is part of the CTA. The L stinks, IMO. Avoid it if you can - walking is almost faster. Being in DC the past year, I now realize how truly bad the L is compared to other public transit systems.

Bricks is a good choice - but be prepared for a bit of a wait if you go on the weekends. I personally wouldn't waste time on traveling to Ravinia or the Brookfield Zoo. Although I do really like Ravinia - haven't been to Brookfield in a while... Lincoln Park zoo is free and a much more convenient location. Paddleboating with the kids around there could be fun.

No one eats deep dish anyway except tourists and people hosting out-of-towners.

Locals don't eat deep dish?! What? I'd agree that there are very touristy deep dish places, but I certainly enjoy deep dish. My vote goes for Lou Malnati's, but maybe that is because I went to high school with the owner's son Their frozen pizza that you can ship anywhere in the US is obscenely expensive, btw.

I think Wicked would be a great choice - and certainly something kids would enjoy.

In the past, I've been able to buy tickets to Cubs games at or below face, but they typically suck, so I don't know how it's been this year since they're actually good.

Bongo Room in Bucktown/Wicker Park is a pretty solid suggestion.

I'd say the #1 thing you MUST do is spend at least some time at the Art Institute, even if the kids complain. It is probably my favorite thing to do in Chicago, I've been there at least 20 times, and the impressionist collection is outstanding. Museum of Science and Industry was always one of my favs growing up.

[cspan37421]

Thanks for the additional recommendations. I'm making my list, checking it twice... no, wait, that's my other job.

We plan to be there the 12th-18th.

I am really looking forward to AIC (the art place, not my fave 90s band), and hope to at least have the kids do the Lion's Trail family tour. I always get a ton more out of a museum with a tour, and somehow I'd like to be able to do the full 4.5 hr Director's tour. Don't know how, with kids, though. Tag-team I guess.

Am thinking of adding museum of surgical science as a twist. my 9 yr old is not easily grossed out, and should be become an MD he might help me obtain a standard of living in retirement to which I'd like to become accustomed.

Gotta run. Future MD wants lunch.

[devildeac]

Goose Island Brewery-2 locations-look at their web site for details. Don't just settle for their Honker's Ale, either. Try their IPA or one of their high gravity brews. Ymm, beer.

Visited last summer so I would agree with many of the prior suggestions.

[hurleyfor3]

The Blue Line of the L will be closed between Rosemont and O'Hare through July 28.

http://www.yourcta.com/news/motion/szep.html#blue

The slow zones *are* gradually getting better, but for now you want to stay off the Blue Line.

[cspan37421]

The Blue Line of the L will be closed between Rosemont and O'Hare through July 28.

http://www.yourcta.com/news/motion/szep.html#blue

The slow zones *are* gradually getting better, but for now you want to stay off the Blue Line.

THANK YOU so much, hurleyfor3. We're under 3 days from leaving and I hadn't noticed that on the CTA website despite scouring it for lots of other info. Lots of slowdowns to go through.

Rosemont is just one stop from O'Hare; any reason not to just go ahead and take the shuttle? I guess there's the potential for more delays and bus substitutions between Rosemont and Addison, so maybe the whole thing is iffy?

Is METRA to Union Station a viable option? Then maybe a taxi to our hotel, or a short train/bus ride?

They're saying 65 minutes to the loop, or rather, from Clark/Lake to ORD. I can't imagine it being much shorter in a taxi, and with 4 of us, I'm not sure a taxi would be as comfortable. Certainly would cost about $40-50 more, each way.

Those little "free bus" connectors to the interrupted blue line stations - imagine how many of those you'd have to have to get a single train's worth of people transported. Ugh! This is getting complicated fast!

[Cavlaw]

I wandered over to the Art Institute last week. Most of the impressionist and renaissance works are not currently on display due to the ongoing construction of the new modern wing, though the heavy hitters are.

The impressionist pieces are concentrated in the front room, second floor, east side of the entry hall, as the rooms down the rest of the impressionist gallery are closed. Caillebotte's Paris Street, Rainy Day, one of the better known pieces, is not up. In its place is Serat's Sunday Afternoon on La Grande Jatte, perhaps the best known piece of AIC. The room also has a good collection of Monets, Pizzaros and Renoirs. I do not believe any Van Gogh's are currently hanging.

Greco's Assumption of the Virgin and Francisco de Zurbarán's Crucifixion have been moved off to a side room but are on display.

Alas, my favorite piece, Bernat Martorell's Saint George Killing the Dragon, is not on display at this time.

The current selection of Japanese block prints is fantastic, however (they rotate every six weeks). They include multiple works by Hokusai (though not The Great Wave off Kanagawa). The room outside of "the quiet room" in the Asian gallery currently has a terrific set of newer works from the Great Northern Wasteland school of China.

[Cavlaw]

THANK YOU so much, hurleyfor3. We're under 3 days from leaving and I hadn't noticed that on the CTA website despite scouring it for lots of other info. Lots of slowdowns to go through.

Rosemont is just one stop from O'Hare; any reason not to just go ahead and take the shuttle? I guess there's the potential for more delays and bus substitutions between Rosemont and Addison, so maybe the whole thing is iffy?

Is METRA to Union Station a viable option? Then maybe a taxi to our hotel, or a short train/bus ride?

They're saying 65 minutes to the loop, or rather, from Clark/Lake to ORD. I can't imagine it being much shorter in a taxi, and with 4 of us, I'm not sure a taxi would be as comfortable. Certainly would cost about $40-50 more, each way.

Those little "free bus" connectors to the interrupted blue line stations - imagine how many of those you'd have to have to get a single train's worth of people transported. Ugh! This is getting complicated fast!

The Metra lines that go to Union Station don't go anywhere near O'Hare. The Union Pacific Northwest lines is the closest, and it goes into Ogilvie Station. To get on it from O'Hare, you would probably go to the Jefferson Park stop anyways, which it shares with the Blue Line.

No reason not to take the shuttle to Rosemont if you're ok with the trip possibly taking longer due to slow zones, otherwise the cab is your best bet.

If you do somehow end up downtown via a train, you likely don't need a cab to get to your hotel. The loop area is not very large, and 10 minutes of walking can take you from one end to the other.

[Cavlaw]

A couple of additional notes:

The Art Institute is free after 5pm on Thursday, and is open until 8pm.

At Shedd, this is a fun weekly event:

Jazzin' at the Shedd
Every Thursday evening, June 19 through Aug. 28
(except Aug. 14)
Bands play on the north terrace and inside at the Caribbean Reef. Admission starts at $10 a person (free for Shedd members). Jazzin' at the Shedd is sponsored by National City.
Time: Ticket sales begin at 5 p.m. The aquarium stays open until 10 p.m. (Oceanarium and "Lizards and the Komodo King" until 8 p.m.; Wild Reef until 8:45 p.m.).
Location: Please use the aquarium's main entrance.

The current special exhibit at Shedd consists of dozens of different lizards, including a komodo named "Faust".

[cspan37421]

I just called Metra - no service on weekends. [there is a O'Hare Transfer station that appears to link to the airport via a free shuttle - it's on the North Central Service line].

Since we land around lunchtime, I think we may just get a bite, even in the airport, before braving the long slog to the Loop.