Public Service Announcement

[OZZIE4DUKE]

OK, friends, you've heard it before, but be sure to check (and replace if necessary) the air filters in your home heating and air conditioning system and in your car. Both are easily checked and replaced (although some cars make it tougher than they should).

Why the reminder you ask? I'll tell you.

I've heard a thunking sound in my house's ductwork for months when the heat comes on or goes off. It started last spring, and when the guy came out to check it and do a spring tune-up on the system, he didn't find anything. It continued during the summer on occasion with the AC on, so I basically ignored it, since there was nothing really wrong. During the recent cold snap, it got worse - the thunk, especially on shut down, was louder, which meant it was more violent - you could feel the vibration of sheet metal as it flexed. I called the company out again the other day and the repair tech came again. He could hear it, but couldn't really identify the cause. He check the burners (it is a propane system) but they were clean. He was going to send out the installation lead guy today since they deal with ductwork more than he does. Last thing we did was check my air filters. I have three air returns, two downstairs and one upstairs. The one upstairs was fine. The two downstairs were completely coated with thick, light gray dust that had accumulated over the last several months, and they were the fancier pleated type filters that traps more dust. He said don't use those as they restrict airflow more, use the cheap fiberglass filters you can see through. Well, when we took the filters out, the thunking stopped. What was happening was the air handler intake had to suck so hard to get enough air to push through the house that the return duct would flex in on startup, and then flex out when the system shut down. Feeling air flow at the outlet registers, the flow seemed normal. I went to Lowe's and bought new filters that cost 75 cents each. Problem solved.

I either spent ~$100 on a service call I didn't need, or saved much money on ductwork that I don't have to replace. I think I saved much money and got a relatively inexpensive lesson, one that I should have known. So that is why I'm passing the word on to y'all too.

And don't forget about that car air filter. As the Fram ad used to say about their oil filters, you can pay a little now or a lot later. Change those filters folks! Gas is stll expensive and getting more so and the right air flow will improve both gas mileage and acceleration.

End of today's PSA.

[Windsor]

Our A/C guy tolds us years ago to change filters everytime we get our electric bill, that way we wouldn't forget and let them go to long. It is now a habit, and once a month they get replaced.

[OZZIE4DUKE]

Our A/C guy tolds us years ago to change filters everytime we get our electric bill, that way we wouldn't forget and let them go to long. It is now a habit, and once a month they get replaced.

Once a month is excessive, unless you:
a) live in an extremely dusty environment
b) own stock in the filter company. A lot of stock.

Every 60 to 90 days is enough for most folks. 90 days plus in not enough.

Oh, if your house filter is one of those washable types, think about using a replaceable filter instead. You never really get the thing clean washing it off with a hose, and they do present a significantly greater air flow restriction even when clean.

[Lavabe]

Oh, if your house filter is one of those washable types, think about using a replaceable filter instead. You never really get the thing clean washing it off with a hose, and they do present a significantly greater air flow restriction even when clean.

Wait a minute... I can replace my original type washable one with a disposable one? Please explain.

[allenmurray]

Once a month is excessive, unless you:
a) live in an extremely dusty environment
b) own stock in the filter company. A lot of stock.

Every 60 to 90 days is enough for most folks. 90 days plus in not enough.

Oh, if your house filter is one of those washable types, think about using a replaceable filter instead. You never really get the thing clean washing it off with a hose, and they do present a significantly greater air flow restriction even when clean.

I use the less expensive ones and replace them more frequently. The only real advantage to that approach is that by replacing them frequently I am less likely to let it go completely off my radar screen and wait too long.

[TillyGalore]

OK, friends, you've heard it before, but be sure to check (and replace if necessary) the air filters in your home heating and air conditioning system and in your car. Both are easily checked and replaced (although some cars make it tougher than they should).

Why the reminder you ask? I'll tell you.

I've heard a thunking sound in my house's ductwork for months when the heat comes on or goes off. It started last spring, and when the guy came out to check it and do a spring tune-up on the system, he didn't find anything. It continued during the summer on occasion with the AC on, so I basically ignored it, since there was nothing really wrong. During the recent cold snap, it got worse - the thunk, especially on shut down, was louder, which meant it was more violent - you could feel the vibration of sheet metal as it flexed. I called the company out again the other day and the repair tech came again. He could hear it, but couldn't really identify the cause. He check the burners (it is a propane system) but they were clean. He was going to send out the installation lead guy today since they deal with ductwork more than he does. Last thing we did was check my air filters. I have three air returns, two downstairs and one upstairs. The one upstairs was fine. The two downstairs were completely coated with thick, light gray dust that had accumulated over the last several months, and they were the fancier pleated type filters that traps more dust. He said don't use those as they restrict airflow more, use the cheap fiberglass filters you can see through. Well, when we took the filters out, the thunking stopped. What was happening was the air handler intake had to suck so hard to get enough air to push through the house that the return duct would flex in on startup, and then flex out when the system shut down. Feeling air flow at the outlet registers, the flow seemed normal. I went to Lowe's and bought new filters that cost 75 cents each. Problem solved.

I either spent ~$100 on a service call I didn't need, or saved much money on ductwork that I don't have to replace. I think I saved much money and got a relatively inexpensive lesson, one that I should have known. So that is why I'm passing the word on to y'all too.

And don't forget about that car air filter. As the Fram ad used to say about their oil filters, you can pay a little now or a lot later. Change those filters folks! Gas is stll expensive and getting more so and the right air flow will improve both gas mileage and acceleration.

End of today's PSA.

Thank you for the PSA Ozzie. That will be the first thing I do in my new house.

[CathyCA]

Another place that you all need to think about cleaning regularly: the coils on your refrigerator.

My refrigerator motor burned out about 2 years ago. The repairman told me that had I simply brushed the dust off of the coils and vacuumed underneath the fridge (not an easy task!), I could have saved several hundred dollars on the refrigerator repair.

I didn't know that I needed to look under my fridge, brush dust from the coils and vacuum it. Now I know, and so do all of you.

[Windsor]

I use the less expensive ones and replace them more frequently. The only real advantage to that approach is that by replacing them frequently I am less likely to let it go completely off my radar screen and wait too long.

That's my logic as well...and the filter in the living room (floor level) sucks in an amazing amount of lab hair!

[TillyGalore]

Another place that you all need to think about cleaning regularly: the coils on your refrigerator.

My refrigerator motor burned out about 2 years ago. The repairman told me that had I simply brushed the dust off of the coils and vacuumed underneath the fridge (not an easy task!), I could have saved several hundred dollars on the refrigerator repair.

I didn't know that I needed to look under my fridge, brush dust from the coils and vacuum it. Now I know, and so do all of you.

Did you have to move your fridge to vacuum under it?

[DukieInKansas]

Another place that you all need to think about cleaning regularly: the coils on your refrigerator.

My refrigerator motor burned out about 2 years ago. The repairman told me that had I simply brushed the dust off of the coils and vacuumed underneath the fridge (not an easy task!), I could have saved several hundred dollars on the refrigerator repair.

I didn't know that I needed to look under my fridge, brush dust from the coils and vacuum it. Now I know, and so do all of you.

Also, apparently you should pull the bottom panel off your dryer and vacuum there. (Repairman's comment to my sister) I'm taking this as a reminder to do all of these things this weekend.

[OZZIE4DUKE]

That's my logic as well...and the filter in the living room (floor level) sucks in an amazing amount of lab hair!

See, you live in a very high hair area and changing your filter monthly makes sense!

Another place that you all need to think about cleaning regularly: the coils on your refrigerator.

I didn't know that I needed to look under my fridge, brush dust from the coils and vacuum it. Now I know, and so do all of you.

Did you have to move your fridge to vacuum under it?

Some refrigerators (and freezers, too) have their coils underneath them, some have them on the back side against the wall. If underneath, there is a removable grate at the front bottom that you can take off (don't force it - you'll break the clips! If you break the clips, don't worry, the grate is mostly cosmetic, although it might keep "stuff" from rolling under the fridge when you, your spouse or your kids drop something.) Use a vacuum cleaner hose with no attachment, the round brush, or the long, pointy flat thing, whichever reaches the coils the best. You might need to use all those attachments to do a good job, and be sure to reach the back most coils too if they are under the fridge - maybe roll it out and attack from both sides if there is enough space underneath. You'll not only save a possible repair bill, but the cooling cycle will run for shorter periods of time and you will save money on your electric bill!

[allenmurray]

Did you have to move your fridge to vacuum under it?

Invite Patrick Davidson over to your house. He will life it with one hand while you vacuum. Better yet, he may just look at it and scare the dust away.

It has been too long since we had a PD thread.

[CathyCA]

Did you have to move your fridge to vacuum under it?

The fridge was on rollers, and I would pull it out a little to squeeze behind it and vacuum along the wall. But my coils were underneath it, so mostly I laid on the floor with the vacuum hose and a separate wire brush and tried to clean the fridge coils.

Like Ozzie said, be careful removing the plastic grate thing or it will break. It's cosmetic only, but it makes your fridge look prettier.

[TillyGalore]

Invite Patrick Davidson over to your house. He will life it with one hand while you vacuum. Better yet, he may just look at it and scare the dust away.

It has been too long since we had a PD thread.

ROTFLMAO

That is awesome!!!!!

[aimo]

Wait a minute... I can replace my original type washable one with a disposable one? Please explain.

You can try, but I know that the permanent filters that my parents use are thin. The disposable ones are too thick to fit them, so they've had to stick with hosing them down.

[Lavabe]

You can try, but I know that the permanent filters that my parents use are thin. The disposable ones are too thick to fit them, so they've had to stick with hosing them down.

So maybe I can wash it down, then whisk away all the crud with a ShamWow?

[OZZIE4DUKE]

Wait a minute... I can replace my original type washable one with a disposable one? Please explain.

It depends on how it is installed and what the dimension are. In some cases, you can slide the old one out and slide a cheap replacement filter in - doesn't matter if it fits tightly, it doesn't have to. But it does have to be supported on the downstream side so it doesn't get sucked into the Induced Draft (ID) fan and muck up the works. The support can be the mounting you slide the filter into, or you could add a couple of thin braces behind it (taking care not to block much surface area, which would defeat the purpose of putting in the less restrictive filter to begin with). So no, not everyone could do this without significant effort (and perhaps mechanical know how).